How to Get the Middle Victorian Look: Dressing to the Nines Part 2- Becky

Have you picked out an experienced seamstress? Or have you embarked on the challenging road of making a corset? Either way, you are on your way to get the perfect silhouette!

The under petticoat or modesty skirt was a slip to cover the wearers backside and could be used from the un-tucked material of the chemise. With a hoop, men and others would be able to literally "see up the skirt" of the woman who did not wear an under petticoat. 
Under petticoats were made of cotton and other like materials. They were also made of red flannel to "prevent rheumatism" in the winter and colored wool for the hard work at the farm!
There is no need for pattern for an under or over petticoat. Under petticoats are comfortable with a 90 inch circumference. You can accomplish this with fabric 45" wide. You would need to measure the length you desire and cut three panels. Gather the top to a waistband that fits your measurement and hem! This is also do-able with larger width fabrics.  

The hoop and or cage is what makes the shape of a Victorian woman. In 1830's women would pile on under petticoat after petticoat to make the desired bell shapes. Then the late '40's and '50's women were wearing the hoops. There are many shapes and widths a hoop could be. 

Ok un minuto.... I just googled searched "Civil War Cage"... This is what I got:

HAHAH!

You can decide on a hoop by your height and body type. Here are some CDVs that show different hoops and cages: 

1860's original cage

The Laced Angel's repro

A cage is a skirt support that has no fabric between the boning, but a hoop has the fabric. My cages, shown below, is made from 7 bones and vertical twill tape connected to a waistband. I bought this from Kay Gnagey at her Originals By Kay store. I ware a cage of 108 circumference and think it is a good size for me. I would also look good in a 90 circumference too. I would be able to layer on over petticoats on this cage if I wanted to make the skirt fuller.

The over petticoat is created with the same formula as the under petticoat, but you want to make sure that it fits over your hoop! The purpose of an over petticoat is not so much as modesty, but to make the skirt wider and to hide the bones. 

Some times Im a derp and look derpy like this:  but this is a great example how the bones show through the dress. I do have a petticoat on, but only one. A great way to prevent this could be to have multiple petticoats or to have a petticoat with tiers. Buy the way, Ken said something really funny and the wind was blowing hard. 

The dress is the last garment you put on to "dress to the nines". I once read a book which was published in 1863, that listed 7 types of dresses! A practical woman would not have so many dresses. One dress may have been and 1)everyday dress, 2) Sunday dress for church, and 3) an evening dress for dinner parties or balls!

But think of the type of woman you are portraying. Are you an immigrant farmer that came over with what she  had on her back? Are you married to a wealthy business man? Different personas will determine what fabrics, prints, styles you will be wearing!

My favorite "go-to" impression is more fact than fiction! I portray a German farmer and I only have one dress. I wear the "required" underpinnings such as: 1) Chemise, 2) drawers, 3) socks, 4) shoes, 5) underpetticoat, 6) a corded petticoat (an underpetticoat with string sewn into the skirt to make a "fuller" look), 7) and my dress!

I know the watch and necklace should not be in the picture!

My dad portrays a poultry farmer. He really does sell eggs to the other reenactors at events! If you are camping a MI event and forgot eggs, you're covered! 

 

How to Get the Middle Victorian Look: Dressing to the Nines Part 1- Becky

I have posted this "Get the Look link" when I was organizing the blog some time ago. You can get my suggested patterns on the link, but I will only be concentrating on the clothing line up.

And so, now you have trained your eye and saw large and small differences an era can have. You might even see similarities between fashion from 70 years a part! Aspects of fashion were reused and thought of as "new", but in reality, it was used back then too!

Now lets move to your clothing line up: Dressing to the nines!

Ever wonder what "the nines" meant? I searched for the classic saying's origin and found this:

"The first example of the use of the phrase that I can find in print is in Samuel Fallows' The Progressive Dictionary of the English Language, 1835. In his entry for the phrase 'to the nines' Fallows gives the example 'dressed up to the nines'..."

How appropriate!

It was how many layers a woman would wear in the Victorian Era.... Lets look!

1. Chemise
2. Socks
3. Shoes
4. Drawers
5. Corset
6. Under petticoat
7. Hoop (or skirt supports)
8. Over petticoat
9. Dress

Brooke showing off her new chemise.

Lets start off with what you wear first! The Chemise is a loose, shirt like undergarment, that protects the skin from possible pinching from lacing the corset and it absorbs sweat, protecting the dress. They also maybe tucked into the drawers or "loose" and used as a modest petticoat (underpetticoat) at its appropriate length near the knee. Chemises were made of cotton, muslin, linen, and pima cotton.

Socks are self explanatory. Socks could be as short as mid calf to over the knee. You could wear plain, plaid, or clocked socks shown below.

Found at Jas Townsend & Sons

Remember when I mentioned that I wear all the appropriate underpinnings? But of course I do! Drawers were introduced near the 1830, but before then women had no type of underwear. The reason for this was that women didnt need them. The purpose of underwear is to protect the clothing from natural body oils and fashion before 1830 were of loose skirts. Drawers became more essential to wear as the clothing became closer to the skin. However, during the time of the month, women would tuck, and use the drawers as extra protection.

The interesting thing about drawers are the fact they do not have a crotch. They are split! I see many new reenactors who are very modest and would not touch split drawers for that reason. But you would wear a underpetticoat to cover up! I find that split drawers are VERY useful when "visiting the lollielocks". I couldnt imagine fussing with the layers between under the petticoat, above the corset and then to put the drawers back in place. It is defiantly a time saver! Drawers were also made of cotton, muslin, linen, and pima cotton.


Believe it or not, shoes, are the next thing you put on! Once you put on your corset, you will not be able to touch your toes easily. I have done this more than I would like to admit! Fugawee and Robert Land are my personal favorite and they have also been compared in a VERY long list of forums. You can find decent black shoes at thrift stores too! I advise saving up for the wonderful, comfortable shoes of Robert Land or Fugawee.

Fugawee

Robert Land  

I cannot stress how much a corset is essential to getting the right look! It is more important than a hoop or a dress! A corset forms the body to the shape of 1860 and supports all of the petticoats and hoops! Can you imagine your hips carrying all the weight of the skirts and dresses? Their called "skirt supports" for a reason! Don't be discouraged about the price of a well fitted corset or the many parts to make one. Save your money for an experienced historical corset maker, or take your time making one. If they are fitted well, they are more comfortable than a bra! 

Samantha

Here are three wonderful examples of a well fitted corset on  ANY body shape!

Myself, Becky

Katie

If you wish, take some time looking at these wonderful corset makers as I take a break from your clothing line up!

• Kay Gnagey from IN
• Kim Lynch from MI
• Jackie and Beth from MI and NC

All women do custom corsets.